Leather Types Explained: Full Grain, Top Grain, Genuine and Bonded

Quick answer: Full grain leather is the top layer of the hide with its natural surface left on, so it is the strongest grade and ages best. Top grain has had that surface sanded and refinished. "Genuine leather" usually means a lower split layer with a coated finish. Bonded leather is scraps glued together and the least durable of the four.

The four leather grades, from toughest to weakest

• Full grain leather: the outer layer with nothing sanded off. Its tight fibres resist wear and moisture, and it darkens into a patina over time.
• Top grain leather: the same top layer, lightly sanded to even out marks, then finished. Smoother and more uniform, but it won't patina the same way.
• Genuine (split) leather: cut from the layers under the grain, then usually embossed or coated. It's real leather, but softer and quicker to wear.
• Bonded leather: leather fibres and offcuts held together with adhesive. Cheap, prone to peeling, and not something we'd build a bag from.

The leathers Brando uses

Full grain oily pull-up: the James range

Oils and waxes worked into full grain leather lighten where it bends or is "pulled", so every piece wears in its own way. You'll find it across our James range, including the James Wallet with Tab Closure, James Pull Tab Card Holder, James Crossbody Bag, James Laptop Backpack, James Travel Wallet and James Toiletry Bag, plus the ladies' Jamie Purse. Shop all men's leather wallets and card holders.

Washed vegetable-tanned leather: the Bell range

Tanned with plant tannins, then washed for a soft, lived-in feel from day one. It's used across the Bell collection, including the Bell Crossbody Bag and Bell Shopper. See all ladies' crossbody bags.

Soft washed vacheta cow leather: the Fiona range

A smooth, supple cow leather with a relaxed vintage finish, used on the Fiona frame pieces such as the Fiona Bifold Purse. Browse all ladies' purses.

Lamb nappa: the Costello jacket

Fine-grained and soft, lamb nappa drapes close to the body and moves with you. That's why we chose it for the Costello Leather Jacket. Shop men's leather jackets.

Pebbled kudu leather: the Kudu One Strap Backpack

A naturally textured grain that hides scuffs on the road. Built into the Kudu One Strap Backpack. See all men's leather backpacks.

Which type of leather lasts longest?

For things you carry every day, such as a wallet, laptop bag or backpack, full grain outlasts the other grades and looks better with age. For a jacket, softness matters as much as strength, which is why we use lamb nappa.

How to care for your leather

• Condition it 3–4 times a year with Brando leather cream.
• Wipe drink and food spills quickly with a damp cloth.
• If it gets wet, let it dry slowly and naturally in an airy spot, never with a heater.
• Use only a non-petroleum-based leather cleaner.

More tips on our care instructions page.

Leather FAQs

Is genuine leather real leather?

Yes, but "genuine" usually means a lower split layer rather than the top grain, so it is less durable than full grain or top grain leather.

What is the most durable type of leather?

Full grain. The natural surface is left intact, so it resists wear best and gets better with age.

Is top grain better than full grain?

No. Top grain is sanded and refinished, which makes it more uniform but less hard-wearing than full grain.

What is oily pull-up leather?

Full grain leather loaded with oils and waxes. It lightens where it flexes and builds a rich patina. You'll find it in the Brando James range.

Brando is a South African leather brand, founded in 1996. Free delivery in South Africa on orders over R2,000 (3–5 working days) and 30-day returns.